Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Savorgnano tour of England, August 25, 1531. p.3.

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The women are all extremely handsome, nor did I ever see the like, save at Augsburg, and their head-gear is graceful. They wear a sort of coif of white linen, from under which a few tresses are visible over the forehead, but the coif fits close behind, so that towards the ears everything is covered, the coif concealing their hair; and on the top of the coif they wear large four-cornered caps of white cloth, this being the head-dress of such as are not of high birth, these last wearing a velvet top-knot instead of the cap, which gives them a very elegant appearance.

The men are more discreet in drinking than the Germans, but more idle. They use certain bucklers — a ridiculous device — and swords made differently to ours; and they always have their bows at hand, with which they shoot marvellously, for they do nothing else. They are tall handsome men, and dress well. As the country is more to the northward, I expected to find the climate cold, and more windy, and worse than in France, but it was the contrary. There is an island, further off, where the men live to a great age, and when tired of life, they destroy themselves, or throw themselves into the sea from some rock, or migrate to other countries.

On reaching Dover, I was requested to cross on the morrow, as I did, and we went off to the ship in boats, the wind being so high, and the surf off the beach so heavy, that they tossed the little boat here and there, as if it had been a box. Having reached the ship, and got on board with difficulty from the constant motion, we found a tremendous sea; and having set sail, all hands were greatly alarmed. The waves were like mountains, and looked as if they would sink us, so the vessel being an insecure one, we remained the whole time in suspense; but by the grace of God and of the glorious Saint Rocco, on whose festival we found ourselves at sea, we reached Calais in less than four hours, having ran very great danger. On landing we were searched at a certain office, to ascertain the amount of money brought by us, only 10 ducats being allowed for each person, and the surplus was seized. I remained at the inn, the sea having prostrated me; my companions inspecting the town, near the walls, when they were immediately arrested as spies, and then sent to prison, from which they were released when their quality was known. The town is neither handsome in itself nor large, but it is surrounded by a very fine wall, with bastions and platforms. I consider it very strong, and it is under very close custody. Having departed thence, I returned in four days —by the same road as the one by which I came—to the Court [at Brussels], where the most noble ambassador was anxiously expecting me.


Brussels, 25th August 1531.


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